Chef Filip Fastén’s small but chic Sibirien district dining room is one of the city’s standard-setting strongholds of New Nordic cooking. Expect rare, super-seasonal ingredients – cooked in an Aga and wood-fired oven – that pay colourful homage to Sweden’s land and sea. Dishes like hanger steak with beets, kale, blackcurrant and sour cream are relentless crowd-pleasers. Seven courses for around €80 is a steal.
Roslagsgatan 43, Sibirien
If you’re on a vintage-bubbly budget, chef Björn Frantzén’s three-Michelin-star restaurant in the swank Norrmalm district rarely disappoint. It’s not cheap – just under €350 for the ten-course menu, in fact – but, hey, if you’re up for a serious splurge (or, if by some crazy luck, someone else has it covered), this is the Stockholm table sans pareil. Alternatively, check out Frantzén’s more affordable gastro-pub in Gamla Stan, The Flying Elk.
Klara Norra Kyrkogata 26, Norrmalm
At easily one of the hottest spots in town, celeb chef and El Bulli alum Niklas Ekstedt cooks up a Michelin-starred menu of hearty, as-nature-intended plates of New Nordic joy. Everything here is prepared in a wood-fired oven, from cold-smoked venison with celeriac and marigold to the beautifully charred sliced scallop with girolles and sugar kelp. It’s all absurdly good. Book ahead for the super-value three-course Friday lunch.
Humlegårdsgatan 17, Östermalm
No surprise, really, that eco-minded, trendy Stockholm takes good care of its veggies and vegans. And so this bright, peppy falafel specialist in the hip Södermalm district does one the most reliable, plant-powered cheap eats in town. Choose from a short menu of large pita wraps or bowls, including the delicious three-bean harissa stew served with crunchy falafel balls, mango salsa and fried Turkish peppers. Outdoor street seating adds to the allure in summer.
Ringvägen 127, Södermalm
Eating out in Stockholm can be pricey, but there are great value eats if you know where to look. In chic Östermalm, this warm, dependably buzzy all-day brasserie comes to the rescue of the budget-conscious. It feels splashy, but the wood-fired sourdough pizza and prettied-up bowls of pasta are a relative bargain for this part of town. Save room for dessert: there’s a stand-alone gelateria by the entrance.
Sturegatan 6, Östermalm
'No social media allowed' reads a sign in the eccentric dining room here, and they really mean it: phones are banned. No doubt not to spoil the surprise for others – and there are surprises. Expect a madcap, all rules broken, only in Stockholm degustation experience that you’ll either love or absolutely hate. It’s crazy popular so book well ahead. Can’t get a table? Hit up sister restaurant Coco & Carmen for an a la carte lunch instead.
Folkungagatan 128, Sodermalm
Hey, if you run one of the coolest furniture brands in Stockholm, why not open a restaurant to show off your wares? Such was the thinking behind this small, beautiful – really beautiful – and ever-buzzy bistro in the Södermalm district. Come for the vibey atmosphere and chef Elias Eriksson’s regularly changing menu of detailed but unfinicky, ingredient-centric cooking that has the city’s cool, creative class hooked.
Mosebacke Torg 9, Södermalm
This photography museum in the city’s harbourside Stadsgårdskajen district is worth a visit for two reasons: first, the ace roster of exhibitions; and secondly, chef Gustaf Sandfridsson's widely buzzed-about, eco-minded restaurant that has earned itself a Michelin Green Star for its sustainability smarts. Expect beautiful, mostly plant-based, no-waste plates of spectacular New Nordic creativity and, from the building’s second floor, some of the finest river views in Stockholm.
Stadsgårdshamnen 22, Stadsgårdskajen
Indian Street Food
No prizes for guessing the gist of things at this seriously popular chainlet of late-opening Indian restaurants, which began as a food truck a few years ago and now has five outlets city-wide. Expect brilliantly done, sub-continental soul food from veggie Mumbai samosas to tandoori chicken tikka skewers and a satisfying menu of 'roadside curries' that includes the rich Lucknowi nalli gosht (slow-cooked lamb shank).
Another affordable city-centre spot, this student-friendly food hall is a good address to have on the radar for its quick and easy – and, mercifully, cheap – eats. Based in the decidedly uncheap Norrmalm district, expect all kinds of on-the-go edibles from chargrilled burgers at Vigårda to pork dumplings at Beijing8 and large, halloumi-falafel wraps at Middle Eastern street-food bar, Malmø.
Kungsgatan 25, Norrmalm