The old city-centre districts of Lisbon – including Bairro Alto, Chiado and Alfama – are beautiful, with colourful pavements, steep hills at every corner and most of the things a visitor would want to see. The funicular railways, Rossio square, Arco da Rua Augusta… all are ace, all are thronging with sightseers. Fortify yourself with a custard tart and a strong coffee then head up the hill to Principe Real (or better still, get a hotel there), where a less busy and more in-the-know selection of attractions. Here are the highlights.