Not all beer is the same. Some of it’s worth no more than a stroll to the corner shop for. Now and again it’s worth a trek across town to that specialist bottle shop. But some beer is worth a pilgrimage: to a remote hilltop in the Italian countryside, far from the chic terrazze of Milan and the craft-beer bars of Rome, to the grounds of a monastery, one of the holiest sites in Italy (a country with holy sites around every corner). Since late 2018, Birrificio Montecassino in Lazio has been bottling a brand-new abbey beer with 1,500 years of history behind it, and you have to come here to try it.