In summer, Edinburgh transforms into the arts capital of the world, its exuberant festivals filling every space and attracting tens of thousands of visitors. Come winter, the vengeful Scottish weather and the greyed sandstone of the buildings can give it an initially sombre air – but spend a bit of time here and you'll realise its inhabitants know well how to make the most of this season. Brisk walks up urban hills, warming drinks in couthy pubs and head-to-toe woolly clothing will make everything seem jollier. Embrace the winter and you'll see a side to Edinburgh you'll want to return for.
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Fill your belly with Scotland's national dish
Haggis is one of the world's great comfort foods – stodgy, spicy and served piping hot. You'll find it all over Edinburgh, but the version at Whiski, a modern whisky bar on the central Royal Mile, is worth seeking out. It strikes a balance between tradition and fanciness, and comes with the proper neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes). Have it with a peppery and sweet Talisker whisky on the side.
