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The monumental modern church of Hallgrímskirkja looms over Reykjavik / Image: Getty Images

1. Hail the almighty at Hallgrímskirkja

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Hallgrímskirkja is the largest church in Iceland / Image: Getty Images

Glowering majestically from 245-feet above the colourful jumble that is the Icelandic capital, Hallgrímskirkja was only completed in 1986 but nonetheless exudes an ancient, timeless sort of energy. Perhaps that’s because architect Guðjón Samúelsson took design cues for its idiosyncratic shape from the fluid forms molten lava takes when it cools. Hallgrímskirkja’s viewing platform is the best way to survey Reykjavik, and proves this volcano-inspired church is the hottest ticket in town.

1 Hallgrímstorg, Miðborg
hallgrimskirkja.is 
Tower entry 1000 ISK

2. Meet the local giants

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Catching a glimpse of a humpback whale near Reykjavik / Image: Adobe Stock

Thanks to its unique geography and mid-Atlantic, Arctic-adjacent location, Iceland sits at the meeting point of both cold and warm currents. This means it’s a great place for small fish and krill to hang out. Even better, that attracts whales. Some 23 species of our hefty cetacean pals are regularly spotted around here, from the humble harbour porpoise and common minke, all the way up to giants like the mighty sperm whale. Boats leave from Reykjavik, mostly in summer, and there’s nowhere in Europe you’re more likely to get lucky chasing tail.

3. Chillax with the cool kids at Kaffibarinn

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The British invasion continues at Kaffibarinn / Image: Alamy

Word on the street is Damon Albarn from Blur part-owns Kaffibarinn, a groovy bar and hangout on a sloping side-road in the heart of Reykjavik. There’s certainly more than a few sly nods to British culture – not least the London Underground-inspired signage out the  front. Inside it’s all low lighting, fashion magazines and comfy seating, but don’t expect retro heritage music. They play proper, quality up-to-the-minute tunes, and at the weekends crank it up hard to get the local cool kids bopping.

1 Bergstadastraeti, Miðborg
kaffibarinn.is

4. Scoff the hotdog of your dreams

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Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur's dogs are minimalist, meaty perfection

Icelandic folks’ go-to fast food is the hotdog. That might sound odd but it sort of makes sense. For a start, their livestock is all free-range and well looked-after – perfect for fabulous franks. One world-famous example you should definitely try is at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (at 1 Tryggvagata), which was established in 1937 and has been patronised by Bill Clinton, Charlie Sheen and at least two Kardashians. If you’re a vegan, don’t worry – you can tuck into a cruelty-free option at friendly, gin-slinging neighbourhood joint Pylsa Bistro (at 105 Laugavegur). Good dog.

5. Savour yummy rotten shark at Íslenski Barinn

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Íslenski Barinn is the top spot for controlled rot

Back in the day, winters were hard and long (still are, to be fair), so Icelandic people had to improvise in order to make sure they had enough to eat. Hence the invention of ‘hákarl’ – also known, rather accurately, as ‘rotten shark’. The luckless fish would be caught, killed and buried underground for about five months, during which time natural fermentation processes takes care of any nasty microbes and make for a nutritious treat. It smells weird, sure, but tastes… pretty good? See for yourself after ordering some at Íslenski Barinn – and tell them to make it snappy.

1a Ingólfsstræti, Miðborg 
islenskibarinn.is

6. Marvel at the island story at Saga Museum

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Life as it was at the Saga Museum / Image: Saga Museum

If all that rotting sea-monster scoffing piques your curiosity about Iceland’s rough-and-ready history, you’re in luck. The Saga Museum is a collection of life-sized waxworks in period costume that tell the turbulent story of life on this beautiful but often brutal island. With vivid tableaux based on historical accounts of great avalanches, volcanic eruptions and an especially nasty bout of the Black Death, you’ll be even more amazed by the culture, literature and good humour of the country today. And you can wear costumes. Ice cool.

2 Grandagarður, Vesturbær  
sagamuseum.is 
General entry 2,500 ISK

7. Warm your cockles at the blue lagoon

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Getting steamy at the Blue Lagoon / Image: Blue Lagoon Iceland

Not technically in Reykjavik, but near enough, and definitely doable on your way to the airport, the Blue Lagoon can be thought of as the ultimate spa. Heated by geothermal pools and populated by (lots of) people daubed in white silica mud, it’s a must-see when you’re in Iceland. Nowadays there are fancy modern changing rooms, upscale restaurants and a shiny new five-star hotel. Plus a gift shop, for that last-minute souvenir – so you don’t end up in hot water when you arrive back home.

9 Norðurljósavegur, Grindavík 
bluelagoon.com
Entry from 5990 ISK

8. Broaden your mind at the Phallological Museum

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A selection of small whale parts at the Phallological Museum / Image: Phallological Museum

Setting out to challenge the stigma and schoolboy-giggles that hamper serious penis research, the Icelandic Phallological Museum contains nearly 300 phallic specimens from 93 species of animal – among them 36 penises from seven different varieties of whale. Instead of trying to titillate or go for cheap laughs, the museum, led by curator Hjörtur Gísli Sigurðsson, aims to have a frank conversation about the role of penises in nature, and the wider culture, with a zero-tolerance attitude to junk science.

2 Kalkofnsvegur, Miðborg 
phallus.is 
General entry 2200 ISK

9. See the world at Perlan

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Perlan's natural and geological exhibitions truly rock / Image: Ragnar Th

Sat atop a cluster of old water tanks on a hillside overlooking Reykjavik, this institution celebrates the remarkable natural history Iceland is blessed with. Perlan's mirrored dome, designed by Ingimundur Sveinsson, is a knockout landmark in its own right. But inside, the cutting edge 'Wonders Of Iceland' exhibition is even more dazzling, bombarding visitors with augmented-reality presentations on ice caves, volcanoes, local wildlife, earthquakes and geothermal zones – not to mention the northern lights, which you can gawp at from its dedicated planetarium. 

1 Varmahlid 1, Hlíðar
perlan.is   
General entry 3900 ISK

10. Sip a liquorice cocktail

Rarely encountered outside Iceland, the much-loved and extraordinarily potent Brennivín (aka ‘Black Death’) spirit is liquorice based, with notes of caraway and cumin, and weighs in at a hefty 40 percent ABV. You can drink it neat, if you want, but for a far classier sup – and outcome – give it a whirl mixed in a nice negroni, served at chic brewpub-cum-cocktail spot Bjorgardurinn. Liquorice of course isn’t to everybody’s taste – but then, it takes all sorts.

Þórunnartún 1, Laugardalur
bjorgardurinn.is/en/ 

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