Love under the Sun

The legend of a Greek goddess has turned a beach on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus into one of the latest must-do - or, rather, must-I-do - places to tie the Knot

Featured February 12 Words by Piet Van Niekerk
Love under the Sun

"See that large sea stack over there?" tour guide Mirka Merkouri points out a large rock off the craggy coastline. "It's called Petra tou Romiou, which means 'rock of the Greek'. The legend says if you swim around it three times, you will be beautiful forever and find eternal love."

It's a bold claim (and one that doesn't stand up to too much scrutiny), but that hasn't stopped couples flocking to this bay in south-western Cyprus in search of the perfect romantic spot for their wedding.

Rumoured to be the birthplace of Aphrodite (or Venus to the Romans), who rose from the sea to become the goddess of romantic love, the bay's beauty far outstrips even the nubile loveliness of the divinity, as depicted in Botticelli's iconic The Birth of Venus. Craggy cliffs provide a backdrop to a sandy cove, where turquoise waters roll in by day and where dramatic sunsets appear to set the world alight.

It might just be the perfect spot for romantics, especially those willing to trust the local view that this place is the key to a long-lasting, happy marriage. And yet, I can't quite believe Mirka's assertions that the popularity of the beach as a wedding venue is due purely to the persuasive powers of ancient legend.

Yes, loving couples are by definition romantics, but this is post-credit-crunch Europe. In the age of austerity, the reality is that weddings are extraordinarily expensive. The estimated average cost in Britain now tops �18,000 (�21,800), not including honeymoon at an additional �3,800 (�4,600). German, Spanish and French couples can find themselves with whopping bills too, estimated at �28,000, �14,000 and �12,000 respectively.

Compared to this, getting married abroad - a "destination wedding" - tends to be much cheaper. It's also a trend that's on the rise, accounting for 18% of all weddings of UK couples. As well as being cost effective, these far-flung nuptials give couples and their families a built-in holiday, and lend a relaxed glow to wedding photos too.

With a predicted bumper crop of proposals this month - Valentine's Day and leap-year proposals by women on 29 February are set to give numbers a boost - thousands will be looking for the perfect spot to wed.

Over the past three years, the number of foreign weddings on Cyprus have almost doubled, rising by a thousand a year. Local municipality figures at the end of last year show that, of the 7,500 "foreign" weddings on the Mediterranean island, 4,500 of them were couples from the UK and Ireland, with average wedding parties of between 40 and 120 guests.

"A crucial point is that getting married in Cyprus can be much cheaper than holding the ceremony at home," says Orestis Rossides, director of Cyprus Tourism in London, who is more realist than romantic.

Rossides is still in the process of working on figures for this year, but on a conservative estimate, he believes the cost of tying the knot in Cyprus is �5,000 to �10,000 cheaper than in the UK, depending, of course, on the size of the wedding. These figures take into account that many couples also buy airplane tickets for close family and guests.

"But we cannot put it all down to money," says Rossides. "Don't forget that Cyprus's appeal as a wedding destination lies in our beautiful climate, with almost year-round sunshine." The numbers speak for themselves: in almost every case recorded by Cyprus Tourism, the couples spent at least the bulk of their honeymoon on the island, with many of the guests also staying on after the wedding.

To illustrate his point, he escorts me to the small village of Lania, north of Limassol, on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains in rural Cyprus. He reaches over a fence to pick a ripe pomegranate, breaking it open to share the sweet, succulent pips.

"Imagine you are on honeymoon here, and you can walk in this village and pick the fruit of fertility," he says with a mischievous smile. And I can imagine it. It's peaceful, quaint and authentic. Later, we pop into the house of local artist Michael Owen, who is keen to show off an old winery and olive-oil press nearby.

This is another draw of the island - the growing eco-tourism scene, which gives people the opportunity for an authentic, rustic escape. Staying in one of the traditional houses in the mountains on honeymoon allows you to be a part of village life. You can learn to bake bread, pick olives and eat local farm produce - the cosiest possible start to a shared life together.

Despite the island's relatively small size (only 9,250km2), it affords a surprising variety of options for wedding and honeymoon vacations. Apart from Aphrodite's beach, there are hundreds of resorts, mountain retreats with great views, secluded getaways and vineyards for the discerning couple to choose from. "You can experience four seasons in one day here. You can be on the beach in the morning, then drive up the mountain and feel the cold of winter. We even have ski resorts," says Rossides.

Most hotels along the Cyprus coast have their own chapels and almost all have wedding planners, who provide distant betrothed couples with much-needed peace of mind. In Paphos, Mirela Pavel is the wedding coordinator at the five-star Elysium Hotel. Between April and October each year, she is responsible for organising 120 weddings, on average, of which she says nine out of 10 are for foreign couples.

"As wedding coordinator, I need to understand the wishes and needs of everybody involved, not only the bride, to make sure the couple's special day is indeed special." She mentions that some of the couples are so happy that they return each year to celebrate their big day with a second or third honeymoon. "When I see them come back, I know I have done a great job."

The wedding process here is similar to the ceremonies in the UK, with the added benefit that the wedding planners will even organise your priest. As Pavel says, "We do the A to Z. All you need to do is show up and make sure you have a bride with you."

Looking for an ideal wedding location? From the quirky to the luxurious, here are some of the top options...

TOP PLACES TO TIE THE KNOT

KASBAH BAB OURIKA

MARRAKECH Retreat to Morocco's heartland by taking over the ancestral stronghold of Kasbah Bab Ourika, perched high in the Atlas mountains. kasbahbabourika.com

TAPUZ

TEL AVIV Just 20 minutes north of Tel Aviv city centre in Rishpon, this venue - the name of which means orange garden - is a lush hideaway, lit with tiny lights for elegant evening weddings. mitchatnim.co.il

WIENERRIESENRAD

VIENNA The setting for the pivotal meeting in the film of The Third Man, Vienna's giant Ferris wheel is now available for weddings. A cabin holds nine guests, the bride, groom and the registrar. wienerriesenrad.com

ASSUMPTION OF MARY PILGRIMAGE

LJUBLJANA The tiny Church of the Assumption of Mary Pilgrimage sits on a fairytale island on Lake Bled in Slovenia. Local tradition dictates a groom must carry his new wife up its 99 steps. slovenia.info

CH�TEAU DE BAGNOLS

LYON For nuptials on a grand scale, this historic 13th-century castle is a dream. Entry is by drawbridge over a dry moat and the towering buttresses will look impressive in wedding snaps. chateaudebagnols.co.uk