Berlin Shopping Map

Half a century after the Berlin Wall went up, trendy locals are enjoying a revival of interest in all things "Ost"

Featured November 11 Words by Laura Martin
Berlin Shopping Map

This year, Germany marks the 50th anniversary since the Berlin Wall was built - and it's got locals reflecting again about life behind the wall. In the city, there's been a return to smoky, candle-lit bars serving up old-fashioned drinks, a rush on retro furnishings at antique flea markets, and new restaurants and hotels decked out in traditional East German kitsch.

Known as Ostalgie (from the German words for "east" and "nostalgia"), the trend first emerged in the 1990s in former eastern-bloc Germany, culminating in various campaigns for the return of vintage foodstuff s, like Vita Cola, the survival of Ossie Crosswalk Man (the fedora-wearing, East German traffic-light symbol) and films like 1999's Sonnenallee.

It harks back to the era from 1961, when the Wall was built, and East Berlin was controlled by the German Democratic Republic (GDR), through to 1989 when it came down. Now a new generation of Germans are enjoying a second wave of the Ostalgie trend and partying like it's still 1969.

Go "Ostalgie"

1. Clärchens Ballhaus
This historic venue has been hosting balls and dances since 1913, but now the oldies on the dance floor are being joined by a younger crowd, with the likes of DJ T-INA Darling hitting the decks and playing anything from jive to house. Be sure to tip cloakroom attendant Günther - he's been working here for 40 years. Clärchens Ballhaus, 24 Augustraße, tel: +49 (0)30 282 9295, ballhaus.de

2. Arkonaplatz flohmarkt
Every Sunday, from 10am to 6pm, the Arkonaplatz flea market in Mitte is where Berlin hipsters flock to pick up retro furnishings: antique chairs, old-fashioned suitcases, vintage clothing and cool knick-knacks. Stock up on originals and take a piece of the GDR home with you. Arkonaplatz, Mitte. Nearest U-bahn: Bernauer Straße

3. Themroc
Tired of modern-day anxiety over menu choice? This cult restaurant is a kickback to the old days of communal dining, when guests were only off ered one choice of starter, main and dessert. The intimate setting and change from €30 for a three-course dinner with wine also makes it feel happily historical. Themroc, 183 Torstraße, tel: +49 (0)30 282 4474, themroc-berlin.de

4. Trabi Safari
The Trabant - or Trabi - car was once seen as the symbol of the GDR in East Germany. Several have now been lovingly restored, giving fans old and new the chance to wrestle with an ancient engine on a self-drive Trabi Safari tour of Berlin. 97 Zimmerstraße; tel: +49 (0)30 2759 2273, trabi-safari.de

5. Kaff ee Burger
This late-night bar and gig venue first opened in 1890. It was a drinking den for theatrical and literary types throughout the years hinter der Wand (behind the Wall), but a new generation now come for raucous gigs and club nights. 60 Torstraße; tel: +49 (0)30 2804 6495, kaff eeburger.de

6. Volkskammer
A design restaurant which marries sleek, high-end East German and Soviet décor with a wide and varied menu of classic dishes and drinks, Try peppered steak washed down with a Vita Cola - the GDR's anti-Western version of Coca Cola. 18b Straße der Pariser Kommune; tel: +49 (0)30 2068 7549, volkskammer.de


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