All at Sea

BELFAST

A kayak can fit into the tiniest of spaces, like narrow chasms between rock faces; they don't flood easily; and their lack of mass beneath the surface means you'll scoot over underwater hazards that would ground any other vessel.

This makes them perfect for coastal exploration - as we discovered when we tried out Northern Ireland's new north coast sea kayak trail (canoeni. com). Running 70 nautical miles from Magilligan Point to Waterfoot at the base of Glenariff, the route off ers kayakers of any level the chance to get a fish-eye view of the region, though novices must be accompanied by a guide.

Steve from Simply Sea Kayak (simplyseakayak.com) was mine for the trip and after going over the basics, we headed out to the uninhabited Skerries islands. As Steve had earlier explained, "It's a fine line between fun and a slog," and the half-hour trip out from the cliffs had me within a paddle's length of that line - until, that is, we danced with a seal. Just off shore from one of the Skerries' seabird-packed islets, a slippery grey head emerged, first on one side of the kayak, then the other. His saucer-like eyes and playful relocations brought a salty smile to my face.

Even better was the experience of surfing the waves at Whitepark Bay. This sweeping sandy beach may look idyllic, but it's home to dangerous rip tides. Though you're perfectly safe in a kayak, there was a thrill as the waves lifted us high above the swell and carried us towards the beach again and again.

Of course, the main attraction along this coastline is the geological oddity of Giant's Causeway. Arriving by land means high entry fees and overcrowded pathways, but in a kayak you avoid that. I got my first glimpse of the formation from the calm of the water and it gave the thrusting hexagonal rock stacks an increased stature that was truly heart- pounding. "It's a magical place," says Steve. I couldn't agree more.

Helen Ochyra