Elegant Weekend in Chania

What better place to relax in style than this classically elegant Greek destination, popular for its local character, Old Town and beaches?

Featured June 10 Words by Jane Foster
Elegant Weekend in Chania

FRIDAY

Nestled between sea and mountains, Chania centres on a charming harbour ringed by waterside tavernas and lounge-style caf�s. For a refined start to the weekend, check in to the Amphora Hotel (from �163, book at www.hotels.easyJet.com), set in a 14th-century building with antique furniture and wooden beamed ceilings.

It's a characterful place to commence exploring the Old Town with its cobbled streets lined with medieval fa�ades - all pretty pastels, wooden shutters and wrought-iron balconies. If you need to pad out your summer wardrobe, you'll find boho-luxe buys in boutiques such as Kihli (25 Kondilaki). Craft shops line Skrydlof Street, where you can buy locally made leather bags and sandals - you won't find designer labels though. Unlike some of the more glam Greek destinations, this Cretan town is all about understated elegance.

Chania is full of ancient charm and history, so before dinner, head for the harbour to see what all the fuss is about. Along the Old Town's coastal promenade you'll pass the Turkish-built domed Mosque of the Janissaries, and the Arsenali, where merchants used to repair their galleys when Chania was a medieval Venetian harbour.

Stepping back into the 21st century, follow the hip locals to Safran (30 Akti Tombazi, www.safranchania.com) on the marina. Bag a waterside table at this smart but unpretentious restaurant and indulge in creative Mediterranean dishes such as tagliatelle with shrimps and saffron. It's a short shuttle boat ride over to the breakwater where candle-lit bars offer exquisite night-time views back across the water to the Old Town.

SATURDAY

There's nothing like a market full of fresh produce and foodie treats to fill an empty stomach, so hunt out your breakfast at the bustling covered market on Platia Venizelou. Local specialities include cheese, olive oil and honey. As the summer air starts to heat up, escape to the cool interior of the Archaeological Museum (Halidon Street) for a couple of hours, where you can discover more about Crete's Minoan, Roman and Hellenistic past.

What would an island break be without a bit of beach time? Two hours' drive southwest of Chania will bring you to Elafonisi, a blissful crescent of white sand extending out to a stunning turquoise lagoon and a tiny island. After lunch at one of the casual tavernas above the beach, wade across the lagoon through warm, knee-high water to explore the island. It offers a sheltered spot for spending a decadent afternoon swimming and sunbathing, followed by a serious sunset as the day comes to a picturesque end.

Dinner at chic Kariatis (Platia Katehaki, tel: +30 28210 55600) is a dressed-up affair, with well-heeled locals indulging in the restaurant's refined menu - think rocket and Parmesan salad and ravioli with truffles. For a nightcap, chill out at the open-air Sinagogi (Parodos Kondilaki), tucked away in the majestic roofless ruins of a Jewish synagogue. The bar's artistic d�cor and lounge music make it popular with stylish young Athenians, and it stays open till 3am.

SUNDAY

After a leisurely breakfast, visit one of Chania's more multicultural sights: the Church of St Nicholas (Platia 1821). It has both a bell-tower and a minaret as it was a church, then a mosque under the Ottoman Turks, and then a church again.

Devote the rest of the day to exploring the gorgeous Akrotiri Peninsula 6km east of Chania. The 17th-century monastery of Agia Triada (www.agiatriada-chania.gr) is stunning set in its avenue of towering eucalyptus trees. Inside, there's a peaceful Italianate courtyard rimmed by cloisters, complete with potted geraniums and cats. Only four monks remain, but they run a shop selling their organic olive oil and wine.

Grab one last swim at Kalatha Beach where scenes from Zorba the Greek were filmed and while away the rest of your Cretan break with a leisurely feast on fresh fish at Kalathas Beach Taverna.