Pink Oysters

The sought-after Pink Diamond is a succulent new variety of oyster grown with green energy and extra sunshine

Featured April 10 Words by Laura Latham
Pink Oysters

Languedoc-Roussillon, a beautiful region in the south of France, has long played second fiddle to its glittering cousin the C�te d'Azur. However, this more rural area has retained its roots in a way that the celeb-strewn resorts of Cannes and St Tropez have not.

This isn't just evident in the cobbled streets of the region's medieval towns and quaint harbours but in the swathes of vineyards that cover the countryside and the rustic food still served everywhere from Michelin-starred restaurants to local bistros.

Chief among local delicacies is seafood and the king of the platter is the oyster. Though not exactly known for its looks, the oyster has captured a special place in the hearts of foodies the world over. It's believed to have aphrodisiac qualities and, as one of the most costly foods available, it has also acquired an association with wealth.

However, now you can have molluscs that not only taste good but look good too. The Pink Diamond is a new style of locally produced oyster with a pink shell, coloured by the rays of the sun. This variety is unique to the Languedoc and only one farmer currently produces it, making it both sought after and twice as expensive as standard products. Then again, twice the effort goes into growing it, with a system that makes innovative use of green energy.

"We modernised our facility to recreate the tidal aspects of the sea," says Fr�d�ric Garcia of Tarbouriech Oysters, a family firm that has been farming oysters since the 1960s. "We created a solar-powered mechanism by which the oyster frames could be lifted from the water and held in the sun. This replicates the natural tidal nature of the sea, where oysters are forced out of the water at low tide. Such interaction with the air and sun makes the product better and causes the shells to generate their special colour."

The Tarbouriech operation lies in the Bassin de Thau, a tideless lagoon near Bouzigues. By artificially recreating tides, Fr�d�ric claims oysters grown on his frames and lifted repeatedly from the water have to "struggle" to survive. "This forces them to produce higher levels of glycogen, a kind of sugar, making them grow a more dense muscle structure, which gives a better taste and texture."

Tarbouriech also farms oysters in the traditional way, with the Pink Diamonds accounting for around 20% of production. Interest is growing thanks to the work of Sud de France, a consortium set up to promote regional delicacies. Renowned French chef Alain Ducasse has heaped praise on Pink Diamonds and they are also in demand in select restaurants across the Continent.

"The Sud de France pink oysters are quite exceptional, an authentic product of amazing quality," says local chef Pierre-Olivier Prouh�ze. "They're larger than other oysters raised in this part of France and have a subtle, nutty taste."

Locals tend to eat them around New Year, partnered with local Limoux sparkling wine. Otherwise, they are popular through spring and summer when various festivals in the region promote local seafood.

According to experts, the best way of eating oysters is raw and they should be chewed rather than swallowed whole. "I prefer to keep things simple, otherwise you spoil the delicate flavours," says Pierre-Olivier. "I present Pink Diamond oysters with just a squeeze of lemon juice, and maybe some slices of brown bread and salted Normandy butter."

WHERE TO FIND SUD DE FRANCE PINK DIAMOND OYSTERS:

PROUHEZE SAVEURS
MONTPELLIER
Star chef Pierre-Olivier Prouh�ze celebrates the best of the Languedoc's produce and seafood in his chic bistro. 728 Avenue de la Pompignane, tel: +33 (0)4 6779 4334

QUINZI & GABRIELI
ROME
Offering "a taste of the sea in the heart of Rome", this stylish restaurant serves up fresh fish and seafood alongside quality Mediterranean fare. 5 Via delle Coppelle, tel: +39 (0)6 687 9389

DA VITTORIO
MILAN
This Relais & Chateau restaurant and hotel is located in a beautiful villa near Bergamo and specialises in Lombardy cuisine and seafood. 17 Via Cantalupa, Brusaporto, tel: +39 (0)35 681 024