Move to Madeira, Portugal
When home is a grand 19th-century estate on a semi-tropical island, what more do you need?
Featured June 09 Words by Laura Latham
Year-round sunshine, stunning coastal views and an active, outdoor lifestyle may sound too good to be true, but the Still family will tell you how wrong you are. They moved to Madeira two years ago and love it so much they've set down roots as deep as the ancient trees in the island's famous forests.
"I never expected to end up in Madeira," says Roger, 57, who lives with wife Lizzie, 49, and 10-year-old daughter Lara in a villa overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. "But it's a beautiful island with so much to do. It's a wonderful place to live."
Roger's career in international sales had already taken the Stills across the world, from the Caribbean to central Europe and Portugal, when he was offered a job working for the illustrious Blandy family in Madeira.
One of the most important names on the island, the Blandys made their fortune in the 1800s, by exporting Madeira wine. Palheiro, the family's 19th-century estate, is famous for its boutique hotel, golf course and botanical gardens - and the development where the Stills' home is located. "Palheiro is a stunning location," says Lizzie. "There is a certain amount of kudos to saying we live there. People are always very impressed."
Madeira is a highly cosmopolitan environment, which gives Lara the chance to mix with a range of nationalities at school. "It was difficult when I first moved here," she says. "But I soon got used to it, and now have a lot of friends from Madeira, Germany, Spain and Holland. We hardly ever watch TV, but we never get bored, because there are so many other things to do."
Roger and Lizzie feel Madeira allows Lara a diverse, outdoor lifestyle she wouldn't find elsewhere. She's currently taking golf and riding lessons, plays tennis and goes on hikes with her father and the family spaniel, Archie, along Madeira's famous levadas (aqueducts). These narrow paths follow the watercourses that flow from the mountains and are picturesque, but can be precarious. "Walking levadas is fun but sometimes it can be scary," says Lara, "Archie fell in last time, so I don't think he likes it much."
Living on such a far-flung outpost doesn't make the family feel isolated. "Europe is only three hours away, so we can get off the island whenever we need a change of scenery," explains Lizzie. "Plus, we have the internet like everyone else, so we can communicate with friends and family and, of course, do our shopping online." She laughs: "Roger's heart sinks whenever a delivery arrives - he knows I've been busy with the credit cards."
Lizzie also feels the family benefits from a simpler, as well as a better, quality of life. "It's a safe environment. Children here don't grow up as fast and aren't exposed to a competitive or materialistic culture." She admits, though, that Madeira may not suit everyone, and advises prospective residents to visit several times or rent for a few months first.
Roger also claims the island is losing its "blue rinse" reputation, thanks to younger families who have moved there. Even their eldest daughter, Charlotte, 21, who lives in the UK and used to prefer holidaying in Ibiza, is happy to visit with her friends. They now find enough clubs and bars on the island to keep them happy.
The family's only quibble might be that the year-round good weather has made them soft. "Madeirans are so used to warmth they think anything below 15°C is freezing, and last winter was quite cold," says Roger. "We're one of the few families in the area who have central heating, so we were the envy of all our friends."
For now, at least, the family have no plans to leave and are constantly thrilled with Madeira's unexpected pleasures. "The other day, we saw a school of dolphins playing just offshore," says Roger. "It's those experiences that lifts the spirits and makes us realise that, after two years, we've barely scratched the island's surface."
MADEIRA
FUN FOR ALL THE FAMILY
Life for the little ones on Madeira is all about fun, fun, fun (and it's pretty good for grown-ups, too)
TODDLERS
Sand stormMadeira has mostly pebble and black-sand beaches, and two imported golden-sand beaches at Calheta. For better beaches, head to the island of Porto Santo, which is a twoand-a-half hour ferry ride from the main city, Funchal - it has 9km of golden sands.
Run wild
Make friends with a range of animals, including Vietnamese pot-bellied pigs, goats and llamas at the petting zoo in the pretty village of Prazeres. There's also a small aquarium in Funchal's Museo de História Natural.
TWEENS (8-12 YEARS)
Sail away
Make like pirates on the Santa María, an authentic working replica of Columbus's 15th-century galleon. Leaves from Funchal marina twice a day.
Splash down
Boasting toboggan rides and water slides, plus several pools and a river, the Santa Cruz Aqua Park is a relatively new addition to Madeira life and is proving popular with younger visitors.
Go walkies
Traverse the island's lesser known areas by walking the levadas (aqueducts), which can take you deep into Madeira's mountainous forests. Some walks can be taxing, so try a guided tour.
Cave in
São Vicente caves were left after an ancient eruption. Take a short tour to discover how they were made.
TEENS
Fast-forwardThe toboggan run is one of Madeira's best known attractions. You're whizzed down the narrow streets from Monte towards Funchal in precarious baskets by men in local dress.
Or try jeep safaris - you'll see Madeira from a new perspective. Madeira Seekers' (www.madeira-seekers.com) full- or half-day routes take in mountains, valleys and villages.
High fliers
Your kids will never forget a helicopter ride. HeliAtlantis (www.heliatlantis.com) operates several routes daily with flights of 10 to 45 minutes. Or a more sedate balloon ride will take you 150m above Funchal.
KIDS OF ALL AGES
Back to natureTwo-thirds of Madeira has been designated a protected national park. This includes the Pico do Areeiro ecological park, which offers 1,000 hectares of mountainous terrain. Walking, canyoning, climbing and cycling are all possible.
Dolphin and whale watching
There are lots of boat trips from Funchal marina that will take you out into the Atlantic to see them at close range. Madeira Wind Birds (www.madeirawindbirds.com) offers eco tours, as well as evening cruises.
All fired up
Every Saturday in June, contestants from different countries take part in the Madeira Atlantic Festival by creating great firework displays to music over Funchal harbour.
WHERE TO STAY
The grounds of Hotel Quinta Jardins do Lago (www.hotels.easyJet.com) boast pools, tennis and a special area for children, which includes a pool, playground and playroom with table football and snooker for older kids. Reid's Palace (www.hotels.easyJet.com) is the most famous hotel on the island and is child-friendly. Its kids' club has babysitting, play centre and kiddie furniture in family rooms.
SCHOOLS
The British School of Madeira: www.britishschoolmadeira.com International School of Madeira: www.madeira-international-school.com Crèche Das Tres Irmãs, Funchal: Tel: +351 291 763 378 Universidade da Madeira: www.uma.pt
EXPATS
www.themadeiratimes.com - a mix of news and information about daily life on Madeira. www.afpop.com - the site for the Association of Foreign Property Owners in Portugal (AFPOP) offers advice and useful info. www.madeiraonline.com, www.madeira4u.com - business and tourism listings sites.
HOT PROPERTY IN MADEIRA
Fulfil your sun-sea-sand fantasies with the best in Madeiran property
UNDER €150,000
This quaint two-bedroom cottage is located in the seafront resort of Ponta Do Sol, and offers a cute and affordable holiday home with ocean views. It's fair to say that it needs some internal updating, but there is additional room to expand, by converting the adjacent stone barn.
€125,000 www.nobregarealty.com Ref: PT-9000
150,000- €300,000
Azulara is a new residential resort currently under development in a spectacular hillside location, offering views across Funchal to the ocean. The design of the resort is highly contemporary, with properties benefiting from plenty of outdoor space. A concierge service will operate and there will also be a top-class spa, restaurant and children's leisure facilities.
From €281,000 www.azulara.com
€300,000+
Designed in traditional Portuguese style, Palheiro Village is part of the historic estate of Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro, which also offers an 18-hole golf course, gardens and spa. Residents benefit from a stylish communal pool and entertainment area with bar and terraces. All properties have panoramic sea views and range from one-bedroom apartments to four-bedroom villas, some with private pools.
From €325,000 www.palheiroestate.com
TIPS FOR BUYING IN MADEIRA
Madeira is part of Portugal, which means EU citizens can buy property without restriction. In theory, the system of purchase follows that of Portugal, but, in practice, it can be more complex.
A qualified, English-speaking lawyer is recommended to help guide you.
Make sure any sales agent you use is licensed by the Portuguese government and has an AMI registration number.
The island's first language is Portuguese, so learning some phrases will be useful. English is also widely spoken.
The contract of purchase, the escritura, sets out the conditions of sale. It is signed by the vendor and buyer before a public notary, after having been read out.
Even large islands can feel isolating, so, before moving, make sure you're happy with the idea of living in a place that can feel cut off at times.
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