Wine Festival on Wheels
On your bike for the quirky Velo Tout Vigne, a highlight of Bordeaux's food and wine calendar
Featured May 09 Words by Tracey DaviesFOLLOW THE VIN
FORGET TIME TRIALS AND YELLOW JERSEYS (UNLESS THEY'RE PART OF A CLOWN COSTUME) - BORDEAUX'S ANNUAL CYCLE RACE IS ABOUT WINE, NOT WINNING
WHO SAYS WINE and sport don't mix? Well, it's certainly not the French. A nation known for its love of the grape and a fondness for travelling on two wheels, celebrates both in May with La Médocaine, the annual cycling race around the vineyards of Médoc.
Now in its 11th year, the Velo Tout Vigne (Cycle Through Vines) attracts over 6,000 mountain-biking wine enthusiasts from all over France. This year, for the first time, it has lured a handful of two-wheeled tipplers from Belgium and the UK.
La Médocaine is not just any old cycling event - think of it as a tiddly Tour de France or a boozy Nove Colli (for more on these, see the panel opposite). You see, it's less about who makes it to the finish line first, and more about tasting some great wines along the way from the region's finest chateaux.
The race kicks off in the village of Arsac in the heart of the southern Médoc. Cyclists choose one of seven circuits, which range from a gentle 20km route right up to a bum- numbing 80km course.
En route, cyclists take in some of the finest views in Aquitaine and organiser Laurent Ourgaut describes La Médocaine on the race's official website as "more of an excursion than a race". The jaune (yellow) route, which is the shortest, takes competitors through the villages of Labarde and Cantenac and over to the famous Château Margaux, where the Garonne River meets the Dordogne. The slightly longer bleu (blue) route winds through the Monbrison vineyards, past Giscours and over to the exclusive Rauzan-Ségla estate. With 56 chateaux dotted around the 80km circuit, cyclists are treated to a host of dramatic views, not to mention the chance to taste some cracking wines.
Each year, partnering chateaux donate over 6,000 litres of wine for tastings, however despite temptation, organisers insist the event is not a free-for-all booze-up. "La Médocaine is not a drinking party - we appreciate the wine here in the Médoc and we take our time to enjoy it," says Laurent.
This said, La Médocaine is definitely an event for the more indulgent of sportsmen. As well as wine, you can sample a whole host of gastronomic fineries, including the race's namesake, Grenier Médocaine, a terrine of porky pick 'n' mix that has become a true delicacy of the Médoc region.
The idea for La Médocaine came from a group of friends celebrating with several glasses of fine Margaux back in September 1996. They had just completed the Marathon du Médoc, a 42km run held in a similar vein around the vineyards of Pauillac, Saint Estèphe and Saint Julien, just north of Bordeaux. By the third glass the idea of a little brother or sister to the great Marathon du Médoc was born, and what better place to hold it than amongst some of the most exclusive chateaux in the world. With initial help from the organisers of the marathon, La Médocaine finally came to fruition in May 1998, with the first race attracting over 1,100 participants.
The majority of cyclists who take part are families or groups of friends, rather than professional teams. There's also a large contingent from French businesses, all of whom sponsor the event. "Teams compete with friends or relatives, so the atmosphere is very relaxed," says Laurent. Fancy dress is actively encouraged and last year saw troupes of blue-faced Smurfs ride alongside men in bridal gowns and swarms of girls dressed as bumble-bees. There is a real sense of fun at La Médocaine and the atmosphere is more quaint village fair than brash sporting event.
Many of the villages that dot the route host mini-festivals on the day for the spectators, with wine tastings and live music plus a score of local gastronomic treats to feast on. The live music generally comes in the form of bandas, small orchestras from the south-west of France who bang out lusty French tunes as cyclists whizz by.
Another highlight of the event is that chateaux have an open-door policy for the weekend of La Médocaine, which for many is the only time the viewing public get to take a peek behind the doors of these private estates.
Along the mid-length orange route, the annual Vinathlon competition takes place. The Vinathlon is a light-hearted series of silly games, along the lines of the British series It's a Knockout. Teams compete for both prestige and gigantic bottles of wine by attempting bizarre feats such as carrying trays of wine glasses while cycling and rolling barrels around an obstacle course with their bare feet. Of course, the hilarity is helped along by yet more vino.
At sundown, after a day of riding and sampling, cyclists finally cross the finish line with barely a wobble, and the red nose is one of fancy dress rather than over-indulgence. The spirit of La Médocaine carries on long into the evening with a huge gala dinner hosted in Arsac. There's an award ceremony, where wine-based prizes such as a 27 litre bottle are given to the race winners, the best teams and the competitors in the most original fancy dress. Then without any concern for tomorrow's sore head, more wine is drunk, the Smurfs start dancing and the folk of La Médocaine party until dawn.
And then the hangover begins…
For more details on La Médocaine Velo Tout Vigne (VTV), which takes place on 30 May, visit www.medocainevtt.com.
If a marathon is more your style, the Pauillac Marathon celebrates its 25th anniversary on 12 September. For more information, visit www.marathondumedoc.com
WHERE TO SPOT SOME WHEEL ACTION
Tour de France
The world's most famous cycle race kicks off in Monaco on 4 July. Competitors cover 3,500km over 22 days.
Fly to Nice www.letour.fr
London to Brighton Cycle Race
On 21 June more than 27,000 competitors will pedal the 87km to the Sussex coast.
Fly to London www.cyclerides.co.uk/brighton.htm
Nove Colli (Nine Hills)
The great Italian cycle race will be held on 24 May near Rimini on the Adriatic coast.
Fly to Pisa or Venice www.novecolli.it
Tour of Britain
The British version of the Tour de France runs from 12-19 September and finishes in the capital.
Fly to London www.tourofbritain.com
La Vuelta
Begins in Assen, Holland on 29 August and ends in Madrid, Spain 22 days later.
Fly to Amsterdam or Madrid www.lavuelta.com
WHERE TO SAVOUR EUROPE'S WINES
Budapest International Wine Festival
Catch the colourful harvest procession and learn more about Hungarian wine.
Fly to Budapest 9-13 September www.aborfesztival.hu
Stuttgarter Weindorf
Savour some of Germany's best Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and more in Hamburg.
Fly to Hamburg 26 June-12 July www.stuttgarter-weindorf.de
Marino Grape Festival
The highlight of Italy's Sagre Dell'uva has to be the sparkling wine that flows from fountains in the main square all day.
Fly to Rome 4 October www.comune.marino.rm.it
Bordeaux Fête Le Vin
Traditionalists head to south-west France for this biennial four-day festival. The next event is in 2010.
Fly to Bordeaux 24-27 June 2010 www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com
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