Currying favour

Sausage as a culinary icon? Head to Berlin to taste the best of the wurst

Sausage as a culinary icon? Head to Berlin to taste the best of the wurst

WORDS BY XAV JUDD

If you’ve never tasted one of these before, you’ll probably think a more satisfactory meal could be gotten out of biting into your own tongue. However, this über-sausage (wurst), which is usually cut into several bite-sized ringlets and smothered in a tomato-based curry sauce, is so scrumptious that it’s become a German icon.

Although the currywurst is eagerly wolfed down on moonlit street corners and in imbiss (snack bars) all over the country, Berlin is regarded as its spiritual birthplace. Legend has it that Herta Heuwer invented its seasoned topping at her Charlottenburg sausage stall out of sheer boredom. She was experimenting with different ingredients while she was waiting for customers on a rainy day, in 1949. Ten years of satisfied clients later, she finally patented her delicious mix under the name “Chillup” (Chilli + Ketchup).

Brühwurst, Bockwurst, Dampfwurst and Bratwurst are just some of the types of sausages that are used in the archetypal currywurst, though the latter of these is not generally favoured in Berlin. The actual portion of meat is usually about 20cm long and can be ordered with skin on it (“Currywurst mit Darm”) or without skin (“Currywurst ohne Darm”). To fully appreciate it, you’ll normally also have to sink your jowls into one of its two culinary bedfellows, either a bread roll or French fries. Traditionally, the whole dish is served on a plastic plate with a plastic fork; simple and tasty.

Originally, due to their cheap price (they are still a bargain at just €1.5-2.5) and perceived lack of sophistication, currywursts were only bought by the impoverished classes. However, their delectable taste and range of varieties succeeded in having this hotdog doppelgänger win through to all of the German people’s hearts and stomachs. Today, anyone from Chancellor Angela Merkel to Franz Beckenbauer can be seen gobbling them up, though it will probably be in a swanky restaurant rather than a quaint greasy spoon.

Being the country’s best-loved fast food has given the currywurst such kudos that famous German crooner Herbert Grönemeyer immortalised it in song.

The mighty wiener even did a spicy star turn in the amusing documentary Best of the Wurst (2004), and is set to be the subject of its own Berlin museum www..currywurstmuseum.de.

Thanks to Kurz & Lang, London’s finest wursts (pictured), www.kurzandlang.co.uk

PHOTO BY TONY FRENCH